Avenue Hoche suit Haute Couture Spring Summer 1949 collection Trompe l’oeil line -Christian Dior © Associations Willy Maywald
Bar suit, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1947 collection by Christian Dior. © Associations Willy Maywald _ ADAGP, 2020
Bar suit, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1947 collection by Christian Dior. © Associations Willy Maywald _ ADAGP, 2020
Bar suit, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1947 collection by Christian Dior. © Associations Willy Maywald _ ADAGP, 2020
Bar suit, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1947 collection by Christian Dior. © Photo Pat English
Unesco suit, Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 1949 collection, Milieu du Siècle line. Christian Dior. © Associations Willy Maywald _ ADAGP, 2020
Avenue Hoche suit Haute Couture Spring Summer 1949 collection Trompe l’oeil line -Christian Dior © Associations Willy Maywald
Bar suit, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1947 collection by Christian Dior. © Associations Willy Maywald _ ADAGP, 2020
Bar suit, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1947 collection by Christian Dior. © Associations Willy Maywald _ ADAGP, 2020
Bar suit, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1947 collection by Christian Dior. © Associations Willy Maywald _ ADAGP, 2020
Bar suit, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1947 collection by Christian Dior. © Photo Pat English
Unesco suit, Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 1949 collection, Milieu du Siècle line. Christian Dior. © Associations Willy Maywald _ ADAGP, 2020
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時間線先回到1947年,Christian Dior 首度發佈個人 Haute Couture 高級訂製時裝系列,當中細緻貼服的修腰剪裁、柔美肩膀輪廓、彰顯玲瓏曲線衣襬和低領口破格設計的 Bar jacket 大受歡迎,被媒體稱為「New Look」。當時攝影師 Willy Maywald 在塞納河岸拍攝的照片傳遍全球,將 Bar jacket 變成傳奇,而在 Jean- Baptiste Mondino 的鏡頭下,由 Marion Cotillard 演繹的外套更成為純美的標記;經過七十多年演變,即使換上不同設計師,每一季的Bar jacket也展現獨有的時代風格。

Suit from Haute Couture Autumn Winter 1968 collection -Christian Dior by Marc Bohan -©-Dior

Suit from Haute Couture Autumn Winter 1968 collection -Christian Dior by Marc Bohan -©-Dior

Forcément dress, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1991 collection. Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré. © Guy Marineau

Forcément dress, Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1991 collection. Christian Dior by Gianfranco Ferré. © Guy Marineau

Bar inspired looks for Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2012 collection. Christian Dior by Raf Simons. © Dior

Bar inspired looks for Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2012 collection. Christian Dior by Raf Simons. © Dior

Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2009 collection. Christian Dior by John Galliano. © Guy Marineau

Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2009 collection. Christian Dior by John Galliano. © Guy Marineau

DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
DIOR BAR JACKET BLACK SAVOIR FAIRE POL BARIL
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Bar jacket 最初的版本豐胸與纖腰效果為重點,一度讓二次大戰恢復期的女性們,重回美好年代;當時的女性,喜愛穿上它在高級酒店享受香檳、雞尾酒,甚至是晚餐。現任女裝創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 則嘗試以 Bar jacket 解放女性身體,讓設計變得寬鬆起來,而且變奏出不同版本。

2020 年秋冬成衣系列為例,它再次展現新意,採用陽剛豪邁的線條、格紋和牛仔布效果,締造耳目一新效果。又如 2020 年秋冬高級訂製系列時裝展上,採用黑白色粗花呢的 Bar jacket 則盡顯精湛的工匠技術。

Dior Fall 2021

Dior Fall 2021

Dior Fall 2021

Dior Fall 2021

Dior Cruise 2021

Dior Cruise 2021

Dior Cruise 2021

Dior Cruise 2021

除此之外, Maria Grazia Chiuri 還特意令 Bar jacket 簡約得像素描一樣,藉此配合不同的演繹方式;其中 2020 年度假系列中與藝術家 Mickalene Thomas Grace Wales Bonner 的創意合作便是最佳例子,Grace Wales Bonner 以真絲和手織酒椰葉揉合鈎織和加勒比刺繡工藝,將鮮豔溫暖的色調與深邃的黑色共冶一爐,剛柔並重。而擅長從安格爾 (Ingres) 和馬奈 (Manet) 等歐洲藝術大師的作品,又汲取非裔美籍視覺藝術家 Mickalene Thomas 的作品為靈感,則延續其創意彩色拼貼畫的精神,重塑 Bar jacket 的經典輪廓,且讓我們期待在 Maria Grazia Chiuri 的打造之下,不斷帶來新驚喜,讓時裝締造更多的可能性。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 21: Anne Nakamura attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring Summer 2019 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 21, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: Lena Mafhouf attends the Dior Womenswear Spring/Summer 2021 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Anthony Ghnassia/Getty Images for Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 21: Anne Nakamura attends the Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring Summer 2019 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 21, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 29: Lena Mafhouf attends the Dior Womenswear Spring/Summer 2021 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 29, 2020 in Paris, France. (Photo by Anthony Ghnassia/Getty Images for Dior)
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