1980年,Armani為電影《American Gigolo》設計了Richard Gere的西裝,使他在荷里活嶄露頭角。這位設計師後來與一些世界上最著名的明星建立了持久的合作關係。還記得Julia Roberts在為《Steel Magnolias》領取金球獎時穿的那套超大號褲裝嗎?那也是Armani的作品。Jodie Foster在1992年的奧斯卡之夜的得獎圈也選擇了他的剪裁。事實上,從那以後,Foster幾乎每次奧斯卡頒獎典禮都穿著Armani的衣服。
在此,跟隨Giorgio Armani在米蘭時裝週期間推出的2022年秋冬系列,一同回顧這位業界傳奇人物關於生活、品味和風格的15句鼓舞人心的話。
關於架構⋯⋯
「我害怕混亂和無序⋯⋯架構使我能夠自由而富有成效地行動,因為我可以監控一切。(I fear chaos and unruliness… Structure allows me to move freely and productively, because I can monitor everything.)」
關於電影⋯⋯
「電影是一種難以抗拒的魔法。我常常在想,如果沒有電影,我的生活會怎樣?當然,我不會成為今天的我和設計師。(Cinema is a form of magic that’s hard to resist. I have often wondered what my life would have been without films. Surely, I would not have become the man and designer that I am today.)」
關於設計遺產⋯⋯
「我把男人和女人從許多束縛中解放出來,變成了一個時代變革中的時尚伴侶。(I liberated men and women from many constrictions, turning into the sartorial companion of an epochal change.)」
關於遠見⋯⋯
「我所做的一切都源於巨大的熱情,加上對細節近乎狂熱的關注。我對風格的看法是透徹、完美成型的,並體現在一切以我的名字命名的作品中。(Everything I do stems from a great passion combined with an almost maniacal attention to detail. My vision of style is crystal clear and perfectly formed, and is reflected in everything that bears my name.)」
關於與時並進⋯⋯
「相關性是別人給你的一種品質。一個人不能自我標榜自己的相關性。(Relevance is a quality that others give to you. One cannot self-crown himself relevant.)
關於動力⋯⋯
「名氣不是促使我走向這條路的原因。也不是金錢——它買不到優雅。製造東西:這才是我一直以來的動力。(Fame is not what pushed me towards this path. It wasn’t money either — it can’t buy elegance. Making things: that’s what has always motivated me.)
關於成為時尚設計師⋯⋯
「當我意識到[時尚]可以成為我的事業,我可以在這個行業中為自己揚名立萬時,我低下了頭並犧牲了我生活的很大一部分。我不得不說,我仍然會做一樣的選擇,完全一樣的方式。(When I realised [fashion] could be my thing, that I could make a name for myself in the industry, I put my head down and sacrificed a large part of my life. I have to say that I’d do it all again, exactly the same way.)」
關於現實世界的時尚⋯⋯
「我為真人設計。我無時無刻不在為我們的顧客著想。創造不實用的服裝或配件是沒有任何美德的。(I design for real people. I think of our customers all the time. There is no virtue whatsoever in creating clothing or accessories that are not practical.)」
關於身份⋯⋯
「一直不變的是我對表達自己的渴望。因為在這個瞬息萬變的世界裡,你可能會受到影響,被拖向某個方向,失去自己的身份。(What has stayed the same is my desire to express myself. Because in this rapidly changing world, you can be influenced, dragged in one direction or another, and lose your own identity.)」
關於紀律⋯⋯
「我所做的事情80%是紀律。其餘的是創造力。(Eighty per cent of what I do is discipline. The rest is creativity.)」
關於可持續性⋯⋯
「我的價值觀一直都是以一種可持續發展的方式——我從來沒有做過一個季節後就要扔掉的東西。(My values have always been in a way sustainable – I’ve never done things to be thrown away after one season.)」
關於限制⋯⋯
「唯一的限制就是好品味。(The only limit is good taste.)」
在創作他的女裝時……
「我意識到一些女性正在尋找一種全能的時尚,就像男人一樣,也就是說一件夾克,她們可以像第二層皮膚一樣自由活動。(I realised that some women were looking for a sort of all-round fashion, just like men, meaning a jacket they could freely move in like a second skin.)」
關於他的三條準則⋯⋯
「有三個很簡單的規則。第一條是要對自己有足夠的了解,因此不要偽裝自己;第二條是要知道什麼時候穿什麼衣服;第三條是永遠不要讓衣服「穿」你,你才是穿衣服的人。(There are three very simple rules. The first one is to know yourself well enough and therefore not disguise yourself; the second is to know what to wear and when; the third is to never let the clothes ‘wear’ you, you’re the one who’s wearing them.)」
原文出自:英國版《Vogue》
Editor
NAOMI PIKE