也許大家都會認為這條在女人街僅售30港元的羽毛圍巾,又有何舉足輕重的影響?雖然在時裝歷史上算不少甚麼靈魂配飾,但在19世紀這條羽毛圍巾卻是上流社會的代表詞,這些羽毛通常都以鴕鳥、火雞、紅鸛等羽毛製成。根據《紐約雜誌》的報導,時裝設計師兼紐約 Henri Bendel 百貨公司創辦人 Henri Bendel 曾聲稱自己是在19世紀末發明了羽毛圍巾(boas),不過事實證明了配飾的歷史悠久能夠追溯至中世紀,甚至更早期歐洲正處於羽毛貿易的高峰期。

在美國大蕭條的時候訂立禁止獵殺候鳥的法案後,羽毛圍巾已經不再具有吸引力,反而成為舞台表演者的專利,從電影明星、變裝皇后到著名的表演者。就像1970年代羽毛圍巾不再象徵財富,而是一種戲劇性的狂野美學,如 Janis Joplin、Elton John 和 Artha Franklin 等等;到了1990年代,羽毛圍巾走入紅地毯的世界,代表人物有Naomi Campbell、Rose McGowan和Lara Flynn Boyle。同時也成功嵌入 《Clueless》、《Almost Famous》、《Sex and the City》和《Never Been Kissed》等流行文化中。

儘管羽毛圍巾沒有出現驚天動地復甦過,總是每個時代紅地毯上最重要的元素,如2019 Lizzo 和 Winnie Harlow 分別在 VMA 頒獎典禮金和 CFDA 時尚大獎上亮相過;還有同年 Met Gala 《Camp: Notes on Fashion》的主題, Kendall Jenner 和 Kylie Jenner 的羽毛造型更是重新演繹出 camp 的風格。

既然羽毛圍巾從來都沒有消失過,不如就來看看歷史上有哪些男性曾經以羽毛圍巾打造出精采重要的時刻吧!

Image courtesy of Gucci

Image courtesy of Gucci

2021年 Alessandro Michele 親自為 Harry Styles 設計了三套 Gucci 西裝造型,同樣搭配三種不同顏色的羽毛圍巾相搭配,創造出格林美紅地毯的經典造型。

Image courtesy of Gucci

Image courtesy of Gucci

1967年 Jimi Hendrix 的 “Magic Boa” 可能是搖滾史上最著名的時刻。

MONTEREY CA - JUNE 18: Jimi Hendrix performs onstage at the Monterey Pop Festival on June 18, 1967 in Monterey, California. (Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)

MONTEREY CA - JUNE 18: Jimi Hendrix performs onstage at the Monterey Pop Festival on June 18, 1967 in Monterey, California. (Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)

這是一張1971年 LGBTQ 歷史上首個美國同性戀遊行 Christopher Street Liberation Day 的照片,紀錄下同性戀的社群早就走在時代的前端。

A marcher at an LGBT parade through New York City on Christopher Street Gay Liberation Day 1971. (Photo by Yigal Mann/Pix/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)

A marcher at an LGBT parade through New York City on Christopher Street Gay Liberation Day 1971. (Photo by Yigal Mann/Pix/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)

百變的 David Bowie “Ziggy Stardust” 開創了一個新的魅力時代。

LOS ANGELES - 1973: Musician David Bowie performs onstage during his "Ziggy Stardust" era in 1973 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)

LOS ANGELES - 1973: Musician David Bowie performs onstage during his "Ziggy Stardust" era in 1973 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)

Singer and guitarist Marc Bolan (1947-1977) of English glam rock group T. Rex performs the group's new single '20th Century Boy' on the BBC music television show 'Top of the Pops' at BBC Television Centre in London, March 1973. (Photo by David Redfern/Redferns)

Singer and guitarist Marc Bolan (1947-1977) of English glam rock group T. Rex performs the group's new single '20th Century Boy' on the BBC music television show 'Top of the Pops' at BBC Television Centre in London, March 1973. (Photo by David Redfern/Redferns)

而 T.Rex 的 Marc Balan 則將羽毛圍巾成為自己標誌式造型的一部分。

UNITED KINGDOM - JANUARY 01: Photo of T REX and Marc BOLAN; in Marc's office (Photo by Jorgen Angel/Redferns)

UNITED KINGDOM - JANUARY 01: Photo of T REX and Marc BOLAN; in Marc's office (Photo by Jorgen Angel/Redferns)

HILVERSUM, NETHERLANDS - DECEMBER 06: The New York Dolls perform live on TopPop TV show for AVRO TV at Hilversum Studios on December 06 1973 L-R Arthur Kane (bass) Sylvain Sylvain (guitar) David Jahansen (vocals) Jerry Nolan (drums) Johnny Thunders (guitar) (Photo by Gijsbert Hanekroot/Redferns)

HILVERSUM, NETHERLANDS - DECEMBER 06: The New York Dolls perform live on TopPop TV show for AVRO TV at Hilversum Studios on December 06 1973 L-R Arthur Kane (bass) Sylvain Sylvain (guitar) David Jahansen (vocals) Jerry Nolan (drums) Johnny Thunders (guitar) (Photo by Gijsbert Hanekroot/Redferns)

New York Dolls 更是配戴羽毛圍巾的最佳造型示範。

HILVERSUM, NETHERLANDS - DECEMBER 06: David Johansen from The New York Dolls performs live on TopPop TV show for AVRO TV at Hilversum Studios on December 06 1973. (Photo by Gijsbert Hanekroot/Redferns)

HILVERSUM, NETHERLANDS - DECEMBER 06: David Johansen from The New York Dolls performs live on TopPop TV show for AVRO TV at Hilversum Studios on December 06 1973. (Photo by Gijsbert Hanekroot/Redferns)

1970年代 Elton John 的羽毛造型已經超越圍巾如此簡單,化身頭飾的一部分,營造出誇張的戲劇效果。

CIRCA 1974: Pop singer Elton John performs onstage at the piano wearing a giant fuzzy hat in circa 1974. (Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)

CIRCA 1974: Pop singer Elton John performs onstage at the piano wearing a giant fuzzy hat in circa 1974. (Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)

Prince 的粉紅色羽毛則是服裝上的裝飾性點綴,卻沒想到如此造型極度適合舞台。

INGLEWOOD, CA - FEBRUARY 19: Prince performs live at the Fabulous Forum on February 19, 1985 in Inglewood, California. (Photo by Michael Montfort/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)

INGLEWOOD, CA - FEBRUARY 19: Prince performs live at the Fabulous Forum on February 19, 1985 in Inglewood, California. (Photo by Michael Montfort/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)

Versace Fall/ Winter 2019

Versace Fall/ Winter 2019


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