所謂繆思,早不是一位光鮮亮麗的模特兒就能帶來靈感的。於許多設計師,Muse是他們的摯友、風格的傳承,甚至就是他們理想中女性的模樣,如情人,如女神,才能不停迸發出火花。Loulou de la Falaise 對於Yves Saint Laurent就是這樣的存在。從60年代末起一直成雙成對的出現在最時髦的場合,奠定了何為聖羅蘭專屬的高級波希米亞風格。
《Vogue》編輯Hamish Bowles曾形容到她是「絕對獨一無二的、引人注目而令人著迷,並且提供了一個盡可能的個性化、有趣、出乎意料,鼓舞人心的真實例子。」
A model strikes a masculine look wearing a pinstriped trouser suit by Yves Saint Laurent, 23rd February 1967. His plainer suit for evening wear known as 'Le Smoking' became his signature piece. (Photo by Reg Lancaster/Daily Express/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
A model strikes a masculine look wearing a pinstriped trouser suit by Yves Saint Laurent, 23rd February 1967. His plainer suit for evening wear known as 'Le Smoking' became his signature piece. (Photo by Reg Lancaster/Daily Express/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
Original sketch of a tuxedo. Autumn-winter 1999 haute couture collection.
© Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris
Original sketch of a tuxedo. Autumn-winter 1999 haute couture collection.
© Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris
許多人或許認為Loulou de la Falaise就是Yves Saint Laurent最傲人成就「吸煙裝」le smoking 的直接靈感來源,Loulou身穿YSL的吸煙照也堪稱經典。
不過聖羅蘭的le smoking實際在1966年便設計出來,Yves Saint Laurent和 Loulou 1968年才相遇,他也的確專門以她為原型,再次修改了設計,成為了吸煙裝的經典版本之一。
Loulou de la Falaise. Photographed by Jean-Pierre Masclet.
Loulou de la Falaise. Photographed by Jean-Pierre Masclet.
出生於1948年的Loulou de la Falais傳聞中受洗禮的水都是加過香水的,母親是大名鼎鼎的Maxime de la Falais,是四五十年代的名模,曾是Elsa Schiaparelli的繆思也是被稱作「那個時代唯一真正時髦的英國女人」。有著愛爾蘭貴族和法國血統的Loulou,骨子裏和從小接觸的東西就是時尚。
十多歲時,已經常出現在《Vogue》和攝影大師Helmut Newton的鏡頭下。1968年,21歲的Loulou 遇見了Yves Saint Laurent,隨後便成為了那些七八十年代享樂主義至上派對中的密友。
Yves Saint Laurent, Louise de la Falaise, François Catroux, and Betty Catroux at a restaurant, 1970. Photographed by Jack Nisberg/Roger-Viollet.
Yves Saint Laurent, Louise de la Falaise, François Catroux, and Betty Catroux at a restaurant, 1970. Photographed by Jack Nisberg/Roger-Viollet.
Loulou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent, and Betty Catroux at a party, 1978.
Loulou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent, and Betty Catroux at a party, 1978.
Yves Saint Laurent, French designer with two fashion models, Betty Catroux (left) and Loulou de la Falaise, outside his 'Rive Gauche' shop. (Photo by John Minihan/Getty Images)
Yves Saint Laurent, French designer with two fashion models, Betty Catroux (left) and Loulou de la Falaise, outside his 'Rive Gauche' shop. (Photo by John Minihan/Getty Images)
與同時期為Yves Saint Luarent繆思的Betty Catroux不同的是,Loulou de la Falaise 能將極緻優雅和隨性不羈同時做到,與Yves Saint Laurent是互補的關係。Yves Saint Laurent的常年合作夥伴PierreBergé 指出:「她的穿著總是某種幻想的精神⋯⋯她充滿生機,叛逆,並且分享他的幽默感。」
FRANCE - JANUARY 01: File pictures of Yves Saint Laurent in France in 1989 - Yves Saint Laurent and Lucie Le Bailly de La Falaise, the niece of Loulou de la Falaise, 1990. (Photo by Pool ARNAL/PICOT/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
FRANCE - JANUARY 01: File pictures of Yves Saint Laurent in France in 1989 - Yves Saint Laurent and Lucie Le Bailly de La Falaise, the niece of Loulou de la Falaise, 1990. (Photo by Pool ARNAL/PICOT/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Défilé Saint Laurent Prêt-à-porter Printemps-Eté 1993
Le top model Loulou de la Falaise et Yves Saint Laurent lors des défilés Prêt-à-porter Printemps-Eté 1993 en octobre 1992 à Paris, France. (Photo by Pool ARNAL/GARCIA/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Défilé Saint Laurent Prêt-à-porter Printemps-Eté 1993
Le top model Loulou de la Falaise et Yves Saint Laurent lors des défilés Prêt-à-porter Printemps-Eté 1993 en octobre 1992 à Paris, France. (Photo by Pool ARNAL/GARCIA/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
1993 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Spring Summer
French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent with his muse Loulou de la Falaise. (Photo by Pierre Vauthey/Sygma/Sygma via Getty Images)
1993 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Spring Summer
French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent with his muse Loulou de la Falaise. (Photo by Pierre Vauthey/Sygma/Sygma via Getty Images)
Défilé Saint Laurent Prêt-à-porter Automne-Hiver 1993-1994
Le top model Loulou de la Falaise lors du défilé Yves Saint Laurent Prêt-à-porter Automne-Hiver 1993-1994 en mars 1993 à Paris, France. (Photo by Pool ARNAL/GARCIA/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Défilé Saint Laurent Prêt-à-porter Automne-Hiver 1993-1994
Le top model Loulou de la Falaise lors du défilé Yves Saint Laurent Prêt-à-porter Automne-Hiver 1993-1994 en mars 1993 à Paris, France. (Photo by Pool ARNAL/GARCIA/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Loulou的風格有著70年代的不羈,頭巾、戒指、禮帽,簡約的服飾上配有誇張的珠寶,因此即使是穿著Saint Laurent中性的服裝也散發出女人味。《The New Yorker》雜誌作者Judy Thurman說她「擁有真正屬於巴黎左岸的波西米亞風格。」
她的風格激發了Yves Saint Laurent捕捉時代嬉皮精神,發掘了他所愛的摩洛哥色彩和戲劇性,並改變了他自己的審美境界。
Loulou de la Falaise in “Antonio’s Guide to Paris,” 1975. Photographed by Antonio Lopez with an Instamatic.
Loulou de la Falaise in “Antonio’s Guide to Paris,” 1975. Photographed by Antonio Lopez with an Instamatic.
Loulou de la Falaise. Photographed by Guy Marineau.
Loulou de la Falaise. Photographed by Guy Marineau.
Model Loulou de la Falaise with arms overhead wears a printed chiffon peasant dress with jewelry by Surgit and Adarsh Gill for Saz with David Evins sandals. (Photo by Bert Stern/Condé Nast via Getty Images)
Model Loulou de la Falaise with arms overhead wears a printed chiffon peasant dress with jewelry by Surgit and Adarsh Gill for Saz with David Evins sandals. (Photo by Bert Stern/Condé Nast via Getty Images)
她有過三段婚姻,19歲時嫁給貴族藝術歷史學家Desmond FitzGerald,一度成為伯爵夫人。21歲時,毅然離婚,隨後在77年,她與YSL的作家和密友Thadée Klossowski de Rola結婚。婚禮上新郎新娘都穿著全白的服飾,Loulou的嫁衣則是harem褲裝、包裹頭巾還有紅色羽毛頭飾,像16世紀中的王公。
6th October 1966: Desmond Fitzgerald, the 29th Knight of Glin, alongside his new French wife Louise de la Falaise, after their wedding in London. (Photo by Wesley/Keystone/Getty Images)
6th October 1966: Desmond Fitzgerald, the 29th Knight of Glin, alongside his new French wife Louise de la Falaise, after their wedding in London. (Photo by Wesley/Keystone/Getty Images)
Yves Saint Laurent flanked by the bride and groom Loulou de La Falaise and Thadée Klossowski, Chalet des Îles, Bois de Boulogne, Paris, 1977. Photograph by Guy Marineau.
© Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris / Guy Marineau
Yves Saint Laurent flanked by the bride and groom Loulou de La Falaise and Thadée Klossowski, Chalet des Îles, Bois de Boulogne, Paris, 1977. Photograph by Guy Marineau.
© Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris / Guy Marineau
Loulou and Yves have fun with hats - Courtesy of de la Falaise family archive
Loulou and Yves have fun with hats - Courtesy of de la Falaise family archive
Loulou de la Falaise 1972年在Yves Saint Laurent的邀請下,正式搬去了巴黎生活,也加入了Yves Saint Laurent工作,她不僅是時裝展上的超模,也是背後那些華麗珠寶的設計師。而YSL珠寶總監她一做便是三十多年,因此Loulou自身活潑、個性鮮明的波希米亞風格也深深影響了到今日我們所熟知的聖羅蘭。她曾向《Vogue》形容道「我們倆都認為幻想是時尚的重要元素。我們傾向於將自己視為吉卜賽人,他們帶著奇妙的大篷車回來了,這些大篷車來自地球上的異國他鄉。但是我們必須自己製造大篷車。Our Orient是我們的想像力。」
「我熱愛我的工作,從早上9點一直到晚上9點,甚至會加班到凌晨2點鐘,我不是個被動的人。」
‘Loulou de la Falaise, the Glamorous Romantic’ cover - © Rizzoli
‘Loulou de la Falaise, the Glamorous Romantic’ cover - © Rizzoli
Photographed by Pascal Chevalier, Vogue, March 2005
Photographed by Pascal Chevalier, Vogue, March 2005
Yves Saint Laurent and Loulou de la Falaise backstage, 1982. Photographed by Guy Marineau.
Yves Saint Laurent and Loulou de la Falaise backstage, 1982. Photographed by Guy Marineau.
甚至,後期Yves Saint Laurent對設計感到疲倦,也是Loulou幫他補充修整,以至於時裝屋的員工稱她為 “ Yves Saint Loulou”。
隨Yves Saint Laurent共同退場後,那個巴黎時裝界最時髦的女士獨立創作了自己的品牌,也曾為Oscar de la Renta設計一系列珠寶。她最終釋懷了:「從前我不認為這詞適用於一個努力工作的人,但既然Saint Laurent成為了歷史,我也成為了歷史的一部分,那麼,也許成為一名繆斯不是一件壞事。」
Loulou de la Falaise gardening. Photographed by Jean-Francois Jaussaud.
Loulou de la Falaise gardening. Photographed by Jean-Francois Jaussaud.
PARIS - JANUARY 25: Loulou de la Falaise attends the Sidaction Party raising funds in support of AIDS during Paris Fashion Week (Haute Couture) Spring/Summer 2006 at Pavillon D'Armenonville on January 25, 2006 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
PARIS - JANUARY 25: Loulou de la Falaise attends the Sidaction Party raising funds in support of AIDS during Paris Fashion Week (Haute Couture) Spring/Summer 2006 at Pavillon D'Armenonville on January 25, 2006 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
Handwritten note about Loulou de la Falaise by Yves Saint Laurent.
© Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris
Handwritten note about Loulou de la Falaise by Yves Saint Laurent.
© Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris