時裝設計師以這兩種方式展示它:好比說是 Ralph Lauren 和 Tommy Hilfiger 就喜歡以 “all-American” 向自己的民族致敬,總是以學院派、常春藤造型為服裝主軸。而另一種便是如比利時設計師 Raf Simons 以局外人的身分看待美國文化,為 Calvin Klein 創造出不一樣的形象,而傳統的絎縫
、Andy Warhol 藝術作品,甚至是美國國旗的運用和融合便是最好的例子,
Pyer Moss 設計師 Kerby Jean-Raymond 便在 2021秋冬高級訂製系列中參考了藝術家 David Hammons設計的紅、黑、綠非洲裔美國人旗幟的造型,展示美國黑人角度審視美國文化的角度。
通過今年和2022年在服裝學院Costume Institute舉辦的服裝展覽,第一部分以 “In American: A Lexicon of Fashion” 為主題,因此我們將回顧來自世界各地的設計師以不同的方式懸掛美國國旗的風格。
John Galliano
Spring 1993 Ready-to-wear
Photo: Condé Nast Archive
Photo: Condé Nast Archive
Tommy Now
Spring 2020 Ready-to-wear
Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com
Photo: Carlo Scarpato / Gorunway.com
Photo: Elon Schoenholz / Courtesy of Gypsy Sport
Photo: Elon Schoenholz / Courtesy of Gypsy Sport
Miguel Adrover, Calvin Klein 205W39NYC
Fall 2012 Menswear, Fall 2017 ready-to-wear
Left: Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com
Right: Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Left: Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com
Right: Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Vaquera
Fall 2017 Ready-to-wear
Pyer Moss
(Left & Right) Fall 2018 Ready-to-wear
(Middle) Fall 2021 Couture
Louis Vuitton
Fall 2019 Menswear
Lacoste
Spring 2016 Ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com
Alexander McQueen, John Galliano
Spring 2000 Ready-to-wear, Fall 2006 Ready-to-wear
Left: Photo: Condé Nast Archive
Right: Photo: Marcio Madeira
Left: Photo: Condé Nast Archive
Right: Photo: Marcio Madeira
Undercover, Gareth Pugh, Katie Eary
Spring 2017 Menswear, Fall 2016 ready-to-wear, Spring 2017 Menswear
Undercover, spring 2017 menswear Photo: Courtesy of Undercover
Gareth Pugh, fall 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Katie Eary spring 2017 menswear
Undercover, spring 2017 menswear Photo: Courtesy of Undercover
Gareth Pugh, fall 2016 ready-to-wear Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Katie Eary spring 2017 menswear
Thom Browne
Spring 2008 Menswear
Photo: Chris Moore/Catwalking
Photo: Chris Moore/Catwalking
Ralph Lauren, Discovered, Coach
Spring 2018 Ready-to-wear, Spring 2016 Menswear, Fall 2015 Ready-to-wear
From the left to right: Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Hirokazu Ohara / indigitalimages.com
Courtesy of Coach
From the left to right: Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Hirokazu Ohara / indigitalimages.com
Courtesy of Coach
Moschino
Spring 2015 Menswear
Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com
Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com
Photo: Monica Feudi / GoRunway.com
Photo: Monica Feudi / GoRunway.com
Givenchy, Ralph Lauren
Spring 2016 Menswear, Fall 2018 Ready-to-wear
Left: Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com
Right: Photo: Victor Virgile / Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Left: Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com
Right: Photo: Victor Virgile / Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Marc Jacobs
Spring 2016 Ready-to-wear
hoto: Gianni Pucci / Indigitalimages.com
hoto: Gianni Pucci / Indigitalimages.com
Faith Connexion
Spring 2017 Ready-to-wear
Photo: Courtesy of Faith Connexion
Photo: Courtesy of Faith Connexion
Tommy Now
Spring 2017 Ready-to-wear
Indigital.tv / Alessandro Garofalo
Indigital.tv / Alessandro Garofalo
Jonathan Cohen
Spring 2021 Ready-to-wear
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Dsquared2
Spring 2012 Ready-to-wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com
John Galliano, Chanel
Fall 2016 Ready-to-wear, Spring 2008 Ready-to-wear
From left to right
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni and Matteo Volta
From left to right
Photo: Marcio Madeira
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni and Matteo Volta
Monse, Gucci
Spring 2018 ready-to-wear
Monse: Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Monse: Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Givenchy
Spring 2014 Menswear, Fall 2012 Menswear, Spring 2016 Menswear
Mr Saturday, Thom Browne
Fall 2021 Menswear, Spring 2008 Menswear
From left to right
Photo: Courtesy of Mr. Saturday
Photo: Chris Moore / Catwalking / Getty Images
From left to right
Photo: Courtesy of Mr. Saturday
Photo: Chris Moore / Catwalking / Getty Images
Moschino, Catherine Malandrino
Fall 2001 Ready-to-wear
Left: Photo: George De Sota / Newsmakers
Left: Photo: George De Sota / Newsmakers
Alexander Wang, Ashish
Spring 2019 Ready-to-wear, Fall 2017 Ready-to-wear
Dolce & Gabbana
Alta Moda, 2018
Photo: Gerardo Somoza / Indigital.tv
Photo: Gerardo Somoza / Indigital.tv
原文轉載自《VOGUE》美國版
>> 立即訂閱電子書及紙本實體書click here