倘若問及這20年間，有誰徹底改變時尚界，答案裡一定有Phoebe Philo。
從掌舵Chloé時期，她將Party Girl所需的精緻、浪漫演繹得淋漓盡致，到Old Céline時期打造的極簡主義典範，Phoebe Philo為女性找到了與時尚的最佳距離，讓女性不需要自我物化亦能釋放個人魅力。自2017年後，Phoebe Philo逐漸淡出了人們的視野，但她的影響力不僅沒有消失，反而轉化成一種類型化的女性時尚的推動力，讓人一眼辨出風格背後的深刻理念，那便是「Philo-sophy」，即Phoebe Philo的哲學。
Chloé FW04
Photo courtesy of Vogue Runway
Chloé FW04
Photo courtesy of Vogue Runway
Chloé FW04
Photo courtesy of Vogue Runway
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Phoebe Philo是這個時代最睿智也是最難以琢磨的設計師之一。不同於世俗對名利的追求，她把重心更多的放在對生命與設計的探索中。面對媒體與鏡頭，她鮮少大肆介紹自己的設計理念與創作靈感，因而她的設計給予了作品更多的話語權，使消費者有更多自我解讀的空間。
今回不妨跟隨VOGUE HONG KONG的視角，解讀Phoebe Philo個人極具「力量」和「冷靜」的穿搭風格，一覽她是如何在自己的衣櫥裡實踐「Philo-sophy」理念的。
1/ Phoebe Philo穿搭秘訣：簡約而不單調
Phoebe Philo的穿搭風格注重簡潔、清爽的設計，但絕不單調。她常常選擇流線型剪裁的衣物，並將注意力放在細節上，例如修身剪裁、獨特的紋理，這些小細節為整體造型增添了層次感和個性。
LONDON - FEBRUARY 18: (UK MAGAZINES OUT, EMBARGOED FOR PUBLICATION IN UK TABLOID NEWSPAPERS UNTIL 48 HOURS AFTER CREATE DATE AND TIME) Phoebe Philo attends Finch & Partners' Pre-BAFTA Party, hosted by the former CEO of Artists Independent Network Charles Finch, on the eve of Orange British Academy Film Awards (BAFTAs), at Annabel's on February 18, 2006 in London, England. (Photo by Dave M. Benett/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 16: (L-R) Members of the Jury : stylist Phoebe Philo, stylist Nicolas Ghesquiere and stylist Karl Lagerfeld attend the "Young Fashion Designer" : LVMH Prize 2017 Edition at Fondation Louis Vuitton on June 16, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images)
PARIS - OCTOBER 8: Phoebe Philo walks the catwalk during the Chloe show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2006 on October 8, 2005 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
Phoebe Philo and Stella McCartney (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
LONDON - FEBRUARY 18: (UK MAGAZINES OUT, EMBARGOED FOR PUBLICATION IN UK TABLOID NEWSPAPERS UNTIL 48 HOURS AFTER CREATE DATE AND TIME) Phoebe Philo attends Finch & Partners' Pre-BAFTA Party, hosted by the former CEO of Artists Independent Network Charles Finch, on the eve of Orange British Academy Film Awards (BAFTAs), at Annabel's on February 18, 2006 in London, England. (Photo by Dave M. Benett/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - MAY 14: Max Wigram (L) and Phoebe Philo attend Sam McKnight's 60th Birthday Party at Tramp on May 14, 2015 in London, England. (Photo by David M. Benett/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 16: (L-R) Members of the Jury : stylist Phoebe Philo, stylist Nicolas Ghesquiere and stylist Karl Lagerfeld attend the "Young Fashion Designer" : LVMH Prize 2017 Edition at Fondation Louis Vuitton on June 16, 2017 in Paris, France. (Photo by Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images)
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2/ Phoebe Philo穿搭秘訣：中性色調
Phoebe Philo偏愛中性色調，這些柔和色調不僅簡潔大方，還容易與其他顏色搭配，打造出不同的風格。她通常選擇單色或是相近色調的組合，使整體造型的視覺效果和諧統一。
LONDON, ENGLAND - JUNE 27: Phoebe Philo attends the screening of 'The Beguiled' at Picturehouse Central on June 27, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Dave J Hogan/Dave J Hogan/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 16: Designer Phoebe Philo attends the LVMH Prize 2016 Young Fashion Designer at Fondation Louis Vuitton on June 16, 2016 in Paris, France. (Photo by Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images)
PARIS - OCTOBER 9: Designer Phoebe Philo backstage at the Chloe fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week (Pret-a-Porter) Spring/Summer 2005 on October 9, 2004 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
Pascal Humbert and Phoebe Philo at theDolce Vita Evening Organised By Jewellers Bulgari At Theatre De L'Empire In Paris. (Photo by Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images)
FRANCE - OCTOBER 11: Chloe spring-summer 2004 ready-to-wear collection in Paris, France on October 11, 2003 - Designer Phoebe Philo. (Photo by Pool BASSIGNAC/BUU/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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3/ Phoebe Philo穿搭秘訣：重視剪裁和質感
Phoebe Philo注重衣物的剪裁和質感，她選擇高質量的面料，使衣物看起來更具質感，並透過剪裁、版型來展現女性的曲線和身形。她善於利用剪裁的巧妙變化，例如腰線的設計或是對比度的運用，以彰顯女性的力量感和自信魅力。
Designer Phoebe Philo attends the British Fashion Awards 2010 at The Savoy Theatre on December 7, 2010 in London, England.
Phoebe Philo attends the 2011 CFDA Fashion Awards at Alice Tully Hall, Lincoln Center on June 6, 2011 in New York City.
LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM - OCTOBER 11: Alber Elbaz and Phoebe Philo attend Artists For Women For Women by David Collins in association with Lanvin on October 11, 2011 in London, England. (Photo by Nick Harvey/WireImage)
Olivier Picasso and "Phoebe Philo" openning of the new international cultural club "Maxim's" created by "Pierre Cardin". (Photo byBertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - MAY 23: Malin Jefferies (L) and Phoebe Philo attend British Vogue's Centenary gala dinner at Kensington Gardens on May 23, 2016 in London, England. (Photo by David M. Benett/Dave Benett/Getty Images)
BOULOGNE-BILLANCOURT, FRANCE - OCTOBER 20: Delphine Arnaud and Phoebe Philo attend the Foundation Louis Vuitton Opening at Foundation Louis Vuitton on October 20, 2014 in Boulogne-Billancourt, France. (Photo by Rindoff/Charriau/French Select/Getty Images)
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4/ Phoebe Philo穿搭秘訣：善於運用配飾
雖然Phoebe Philo的風格偏向簡約，但她善於運用配飾來提升整體造型。她常常選擇簡單卻有特色的配飾，如腰帶、絲巾、圍巾等單品，為整體造型增添亮點與個性，盡釋不凡氣韻，勾勒典雅姿態。
LONDON - NOVEMBER 3: (EMBARGOED FOR PUBLICATION IN UK TABLOID NEWSPAPERS UNTIL 48 HOURS AFTER CREATE DATE AND TIME) Creative Director of Chloe Phoebe Philo and partner artist Max Wigram attend the Vogue and Motorola Private VIP Party, launching Vogue's December 2004 issue, at Portland Place on November 3, 2004 in London. (Photo by Dave Benett/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 20: (L to R) Phoebe Philo, Laura Ingham and Deputy Editor of British Vogue Sarah Harris attend an intimate dinner and party hosted by British Vogue and Tiffany & Co. to celebrate Fashion and Film during London Fashion Week September 2021 at The Londoner Hotel on September 20, 2021 in London, England. (Photo by David M. Benett/Dave Benett/Getty Images)
LONDON - MAY 20: Phoebe Philo and Max Wigram attend African Solutions To African Problems - Luncheon at Il Bottaccio on May 20, 2008 in London, England. (Photo by Nick Harvey/WireImage)
LONDON - JUNE 25: Phoebe Philo attends the Richard Prince 'Continuation' Private View at the Serpentine Gallery on June 25, 2008 in London, England. (Photo by Nick Harvey/WireImage)
Phoebe Philo at The Dinner Party Hosted By Vincent Darre At Castel . (Photo by Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - MARCH 23: (L-R) Max Wigram, Phoebe Philo and Phoebe Philo attend Kim Sion's birthday party at Tramp on March 23, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Max Cisotti/Dave Benett/Getty Images)
LONDON - NOVEMBER 3: (EMBARGOED FOR PUBLICATION IN UK TABLOID NEWSPAPERS UNTIL 48 HOURS AFTER CREATE DATE AND TIME) Creative Director of Chloe Phoebe Philo and partner artist Max Wigram attend the Vogue and Motorola Private VIP Party, launching Vogue's December 2004 issue, at Portland Place on November 3, 2004 in London. (Photo by Dave Benett/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 20: (L to R) Phoebe Philo, Laura Ingham and Deputy Editor of British Vogue Sarah Harris attend an intimate dinner and party hosted by British Vogue and Tiffany & Co. to celebrate Fashion and Film during London Fashion Week September 2021 at The Londoner Hotel on September 20, 2021 in London, England. (Photo by David M. Benett/Dave Benett/Getty Images)
Pheobe Philo attends the "TIME 100 Gala, TIME's 100 Most Influential People In The World" at the Frederick P Rose Hall at Lincoln Center in New York City. © LAN (Photo by Lars Niki/Corbis via Getty Images)
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5/ Phoebe Philo穿搭秘訣：舒適感至上
Phoebe Philo喜歡選擇柔軟舒適、易於穿著和活動的面料，並注重衣物的合身度和彈性，以強調穿著舒適感，不失時尚感的同時，還感受到自在放鬆的姿態。Phoebe Philo喜歡穿著寬鬆的褲裝，以極簡結構和舒適面料抒寫雋永格調。
Phoebe Philo backstage (Photo by Gruber/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 06: Phoebe Philo walks the runway during the Celine Ready to Wear Autumn/Winter 2011/2012 show during Paris Fashion Week on March 6, 2011 in Paris, France. (Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage)
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Editor
Hillary Huang
