首先我們先弄清楚「Luxury」的意思,奢侈品,但它不僅僅是指昂貴的設計品,它圍繞生活的方方面面,例如生活方式的種種,從衣著到旅行⋯⋯至於時裝,奢侈品與傳統時裝屋的名字總是聯繫在一起,即使半個世紀過去,亦無太大改變。而奢侈品的特性除了工藝與品質出眾,更在於它經歷時間後仍能歷久不衰,是不少潮流品無法比擬的。但隨著時間,它的美學仍出現不少變化。

想像當Chanel的LBD、Dior的New Look來到2023年,將是嶄新的奢華演繹。

當前時尚界熱衷復古——各種8、90年代的經典重新復刻,以及各種Noughties的千禧年初潮流,令2023年的奢侈時尚具有不同面貌。與此同時,更低調的奢華設計,無Logo設計的高級時裝——「Quiet Luxury」成為一種代表資產階層的選擇,比過去流行的「Normcore」極簡主義的風格更多元,舉例說,Bottega Veneta 的格紋恤衫、白色背心以及藍色牛仔褲⋯⋯還有PradaThe RowLoro PianaBrunello Cucinelli等品牌的設計。

Bottega Veneta Spring 2023 Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Bottega Veneta Spring 2023 Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: Kendall Jenner walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: Kendall Jenner walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

雖然Monogram Logo設計仍佔有一席之地,但你能從 Kendall JennerGwyneth PaltrowSelena Gomez、Mary-Kate Olsen 和 Ashley Olsen 等名人的造型窺見「Quiet Luxury」的影響——沒有Logo卻有高級奢華質感的大褸、用到殘舊的愛馬仕Kelly手袋、某個奢侈品牌的復古牛仔褲⋯⋯就算穿著的人沒有高調炫耀品牌,每一件單品似乎都具有時尚的宣言,這就是「Quiet Luxury」的魅力。

Mary-Kate Olsen with her Kelly bag, November 2010. Photo: Courtesy of Getty Images

Mary-Kate Olsen with her Kelly bag, November 2010. Photo: Courtesy of Getty Images

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - MARCH 29: Selena Gomez is seen on the streets of Manhattan on March 29, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Gotham/GC Images)

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - MARCH 29: Selena Gomez is seen on the streets of Manhattan on March 29, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Gotham/GC Images)

可以說,「Quiet Luxury」不僅是一種審美風格、潮流,更代表一種身份象徵、一種態度。它真正的意義和「炫富」無關,最重要的共通點是,它超越時間的經典設計,基礎卻永恆的高級時裝品味。就算你並無刻意追隨它,它亦在無形中影響著每一個人。