設計師 Sarah Burton 在 Alexander McQueen 的告別騷以致敬品牌創始人 Lee Alexander McQueen 的方式落幕，師承 Lee McQueen 的 Burton 接過了 Lee 天馬行空般的想像力和浪漫主義衣缽，並對女性主義有著始終如一的關懷。
Designer Sarah Burton bows during her final show as Creative Director at the Alexander McQueen SS24 show during Paris Fashion Week at Le Carreau du Temple on September 30, 2023 in Paris, France.
Photo by Dave Benett/Getty Images for Alexander McQueen
Designer Sarah Burton bows during her final show as Creative Director at the Alexander McQueen SS24 show during Paris Fashion Week at Le Carreau du Temple on September 30, 2023 in Paris, France.
Photo by Dave Benett/Getty Images for Alexander McQueen
Sarah Burton 畢業於倫敦中央聖馬丁學院，最早以實習生身份加入該品牌，直到 2000 年被任命為品牌女裝設計主管，從此開始了和品牌已故創始人 Lee Alexander McQueen 的密切合作。2010 年，在創始人 Lee 去世後，Burton 由此接任成為品牌創意總監。
在 Sarah Burton 的掌舵下，她不僅將品牌旗下高級訂製系列和成衣系列做到了完美的平衡，還為品牌實現了巨大的商業價值。根據摩根士丹利分析師的測算，Alexander McQueen 在 2022 年銷售額估計達到了 8.3 億歐元，直逼 10 億歐元俱樂部。而其打造的 「小白鞋」產品則成為了街頭潮流標誌性單品之一。
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: A guest wears a white cropped shirt, a pale gray blazer jacket, a white matte leather crossbody bag from Jacquemus, white leather sneakers from Alexander Mc Queen, blue faded ripped kneed flared pants , outside Bally, during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2023/2024 on February 25, 2023 in Milan, Italy.
Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: A guest wears a white cropped shirt, a pale gray blazer jacket, a white matte leather crossbody bag from Jacquemus, white leather sneakers from Alexander Mc Queen, blue faded ripped kneed flared pants , outside Bally, during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2023/2024 on February 25, 2023 in Milan, Italy.
Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images
一方面，Sarah Burton 繼承了許多其師 Lee McQueen 的設計精髓，比如多次以維多利亞時期的文化和風格為主題；但另一方面，Burton 又發展出了屬於自己的設計語言，比如對女性柔美的讚歌，對英倫精緻剪裁的看重。風格上來看，誇張、華麗、復古宮廷 —— 這是 Sarah Burton 掌舵以來的 Alexander McQueen 風格特點之一。比如其 2016 春夏、2019 春夏、2022 春夏和 2023 早春系列都有維多利亞時期的復古宮廷和浪漫美學元素。
Alexander McQueen 2016 春夏系列
![]()
PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 04: A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2016 on October 4, 2015 in Paris, France.
Photo by Francois Durand/Getty Images
![]()
Alexander McQueen 2016 Spring
Photo by Getty Images
![]()
Alexander McQueen 2016 Spring
PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 04: A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2016 on October 4, 2015 in Paris, France.
Photo by Francois Durand/Getty Images
Alexander McQueen 2016 Spring
Photo by Getty Images
Alexander McQueen 2016 Spring
1 / 3
Alexander McQueen 2019 春夏系列
![]()
Photo Courtesy of Getty Images
![]()
Photo Courtesy of Getty Images
Photo Courtesy of Getty Images
Photo Courtesy of Getty Images
1 / 2
Alexander McQueen 2022 春夏系列
![Alexander]()
LONDON, ENGLAND - OCTOBER 12: A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the London Fashion Week on October 12, 2021 in London, United Kingdom.
Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
![]()
LONDON, ENGLAND - OCTOBER 12: A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the London Fashion Week on October 12, 2021 in London, United Kingdom. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - OCTOBER 12: A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the London Fashion Week on October 12, 2021 in London, United Kingdom.
Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
LONDON, ENGLAND - OCTOBER 12: A model walks the runway during the Alexander McQueen Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show as part of the London Fashion Week on October 12, 2021 in London, United Kingdom. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
1 / 2
浪漫、柔美、力量 —— 這些女性氣質則代表了 Burton 手下的 Alexander McQueen 另一面。如果說英倫 Savile Row 的精緻剪裁是 McQueen 這個品牌的 DNA 之一，訴說 「美與力量」則是這個品牌歷來的使命。
Alexander McQueen 2023 秋冬系列以 「解剖（Anatomy）」為題，借助精湛的手工藝技術探索了 「美與力量」這個話題。像 2022 秋冬系列當中，Sarah Burton 通過極致的輪廓線條賦予了女性展現美的機會，但又利用皮革元素給予女性力量的盔甲。
Photos: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
Photos: Courtesy of Alexander McQueen
除此之外，Burton 手下的 McQueen 因其高訂系列的成功也不斷收穫了像凱特王妃等名人明星的擁護。2011 年，Burton 為凱特王妃所設計的禮裙成為她一鳴驚人的經典作品。「為其工藝之美和對傳統手工藝及服裝結構的尊重而青睞有加」—— 凱特王妃 Kate Middleton 如是說道。
Kate Middleton arrives at Westminster Abbey for her royal wedding to Britain's Prince William in London. Her long—sleeved, full skirt wedding dress is designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen.
Photo by Brooks Kraft LLC/Corbis via Getty Images
Kate Middleton arrives at Westminster Abbey for her royal wedding to Britain's Prince William in London. Her long—sleeved, full skirt wedding dress is designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen.
Photo by Brooks Kraft LLC/Corbis via Getty Images
不僅僅是 Kate Middleton，還有像 Elle Fanning、Zendaya、Beyoncé、Nicole Kidman、Lady Gaga、Margot Robbie 等人都是 Burton 時期 Alexander McQueen 的追捧者。
CANNES, FRANCE - MAY 16: Elle Fanning attends the "Jeanne du Barry" Screening & opening ceremony red carpet at the 76th annual Cannes film festival at Palais des Festivals on May 16, 2023 in Cannes, France.
Photo by Marc Piasecki/FilmMagic
CANNES, FRANCE - MAY 16: Elle Fanning attends the "Jeanne du Barry" Screening & opening ceremony red carpet at the 76th annual Cannes film festival at Palais des Festivals on May 16, 2023 in Cannes, France.
Photo by Marc Piasecki/FilmMagic
演員 Elle Fanning 曾在 2014 年的坎城影展上穿著了 Burton 設計的 McQueen 晚禮服，又在今年坎城影展上再度穿上了 McQueen。
NEW YORK, NY - MAY 02: Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban attend the "Manus x Machina: Fashion In An Age Of Technology" Costume Institute Gala at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 2, 2016 in New York City.
Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for The Huffington Post
NEW YORK, NY - MAY 02: Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban attend the "Manus x Machina: Fashion In An Age Of Technology" Costume Institute Gala at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 2, 2016 in New York City.
Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for The Huffington Post
演員 Nicole Kidman 曾穿著一席 McQueen 2016 秋冬系列的裝飾主義風格晚禮服出席了當年的 Met Gala 晚會。
Australian actress Cate Blanchett at the 77 Venice International Film Festival 2020. Closing ceremony red carpet. Venice (Italy), September 12th, 2020
Photo by Marilla Sicilia/Archivio Marilla Sicilia/Mondadori Portfolio via Getty Images
Australian actress Cate Blanchett at the 77 Venice International Film Festival 2020. Closing ceremony red carpet. Venice (Italy), September 12th, 2020
Photo by Marilla Sicilia/Archivio Marilla Sicilia/Mondadori Portfolio via Getty Images
影后 Cate Blanchett 曾兩度穿著 McQueen 出席了重要場合，分別是 2016 年的 BAFTAs 和 2020 年的威尼斯電影節。
歌手 Lady Gaga 一直以來都是 McQueen 的忠實顧客，她不僅是奇才設計師 Lee Alexander McQueen 的繆思女神，也曾數次選擇了 Burton 的設計出席重要場合，比如 2019 年的奧斯卡頒獎禮。
除了歐美歌手、影星，韓國國民演員全智賢則是該品牌的首個韓國品牌大使；韓國超級偶像團體 BTS 也曾在 KBS Song Festival 上穿著了 McQueen 2020 秋冬系列。
