品牌人事變動的消息,例如 Haider Ackermann 加入 Tom Ford,難免會在網上引發各種分析與猜測。預測是一回事,但表現又是另一回事。

不過,我們還是可以考慮過去作品的視覺證據,這也是我們在以下配對中所做的。這些組合與時間順序無關,也沒有暗示某位設計師影響了另一位設計師,只是Tom Ford 和 Ackermann 有某些共同的美學偏好,例如瘦削和狹窄的輪廓,以及意想不到的混搭,例如晚裝褲上的工裝口袋或或是背心搭配垂墜的蕾絲短裙或精緻的褶皺長褲;另一個共通點是以誇張的腰帶纏繞腰部,以及以挑逗的方式修飾肌膚的精準剪裁。值得注意的是,兩位設計師對天鵝絨的柔美誘惑情有獨鍾——這些都是他們的願景並行的例子——Ackermann 如何平衡傳統和新穎,將決定一個與性感和精緻相關的品牌的下一個篇章。

From Left: Tom Ford spring/summer 2019, Haider Ackermann autumn/winter 2016

From Left: Tom Ford spring/summer 2019, Haider Ackermann autumn/winter 2016

From Left: Tom Ford spring/summer 2016, Haider Ackermann for Ruffo Research spring/summer 2003

From Left: Tom Ford spring/summer 2016, Haider Ackermann for Ruffo Research spring/summer 2003

From Left: Tom Ford spring/summer 2022, Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2016.

From Left: Tom Ford spring/summer 2022, Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2016.

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2013, Haider Ackermann autumn/winter 2020

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2013, Haider Ackermann autumn/winter 2020

From Left: Tom Ford spring/summer 2019, Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2004.

From Left: Tom Ford spring/summer 2019, Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2004.

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2016, Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2015

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2016, Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2015

From Left: Tom Ford spring/summer 2018, Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2010.

From Left: Tom Ford spring/summer 2018, Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2010.

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2020, Haider Ackermann autumn/winter 2013

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2020, Haider Ackermann autumn/winter 2013

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2013, Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2017

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2013, Haider Ackermann spring/summer 2017

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2013, Haider Ackermann, all 2020.

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2013, Haider Ackermann, all 2020.

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2020, Jean Paul Gaultier spring/summer 2023 couture

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2020, Jean Paul Gaultier spring/summer 2023 couture

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2022, Haider Ackermann autumn/winter 2016

From Left: Tom Ford autumn/winter 2022, Haider Ackermann autumn/winter 2016

原文轉載自《VOGUE》英國版