PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 04: A model walks the runway during the Miu Miu Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on October 4, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

DOHA, QATAR - OCTOBER 28: Bella Hadid attends the EMERGE GALA Dinner and Live Charity Auction hosted by International supermodel and philanthropist Naomi Campbell in partnership with Sotheby's to recognize and reward young creative and business talents from emerging regions, with a focus in Africa, The Diaspora and developing communities around the world, at QF Ceremonial Court on October 28, 2022 at Doha, Qatar. (Photo by David M. Benett/Dave Benett/Getty Images for EMERGE)

PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 27: A model walks the runway during the Christian Dior Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on September 27, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 21: A model walks the runway during the Fendi Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 30: A model walks the runway during the Loewe Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on September 30, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 03: A model walks the runway during the Stella McCartney Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on October 3, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 28: A model walks the runway during the Dries Van Noten Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on September 28, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 02: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Valentino Womenswear Spring/Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on October 02, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage)

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Fashion 8 May 2023

Loewe「米妮鞋」、Fendi手拿包、Stella McCartney奈良美智連身裙⋯⋯值得投資的8件2023年時尚單品

從話題性、經典度與收藏價值，看看VOGUE Hong Kong的編輯會在這個春夏投資哪一項時尚單品？

by VOGUE HONG KONG

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今年春夏季依然百花齊放，但潮流似乎隨著世界氛圍愈加壓抑，貌似向兩種極端走去——一方面極盡浪漫夢幻之能事，對抗讓人痛苦的現實，另一方面則趨向功能性與實用性，裝備自己面對不安。VOGUE Hong Kong編輯部挑選的8件時裝單品，從手袋、鞋履到衣裙都有涉獵，風格、功能亦不盡相同，似乎亦預示著，在歷史推進的動盪時刻，時尚和創意更能在不同層次上發揮力量？

SS23 Editor’s Pick #1 Loewe Minnie Mouse heels

從JW Anderson在時尚舞台打響名堂起，超現實主義貫穿其設計風格，今個春夏再下一城，將靈感繆思轉至「2D」卡通世界，其中一雙「網紅鞋」更是Minnie Mouse高跟鞋的具現化，圓滾滾不符合人體線條的鞋履形狀，更凸顯出一種弔詭的可愛感。

SS23 Editor’s Pick #2 Stella McCartney Yoshitomo Nara Dress

同樣充滿夢幻氣色，Stella McCartney卻借用著名日本藝術家奈良美智的作品來介入現實：眾眾所周知奈良本人是始終如一的反戰主義者。剪裁簡約的不規則連身裙上印著藝術家的標誌性作品，是時尚與與藝術對暴力世代的強烈批判。

SS23 Editor’s Pick #3 Valentino feathered double-collar coat

順手拈來的亮眼顏色，是Valentino創意總監Pierpaolo Piccioli的拿手好戲，脫離「Valentino Pink」之後，2023春夏季回歸「平淡」，專注精緻的剪裁和細節。這件綴羽毛邊的鮮黃色孖襟大衣，無論從材質混用、剪裁、色調，都完美呈現如何為之恰度好處。

SS23 Editor’s Pick #4 Schiaparelli hooded gown

精緻的兜帽連身晚裝在Schiaparelli的2023春夏系列中非常亮眼，後又有名模Bella Hadid親自演繹，濃厚的新東方主義味道似乎逐漸在高級時尚圈慢慢復興。這個造型讓人不禁想起Grace Jones在經典占士邦電影《A View To Kill》中的經典形象，嫵媚與剛強集於一身。

Jamaican actress, model, and singer Grace Jones at the 'View To A Kill' press photo call, 6/13/1985. (Photo by Steve Rapport/Getty Images)

SS23 Editor’s Pick #5 Miu Miu performance wear

有別於以往的明亮少女風格，這個春夏季的Miu Miu以功能性與休閒長服作為貫穿系列的主題，同時呼應仍然風頭正盛的Y2K潮流。低腰尼龍短裙上的立體口袋、平口束胸上的扣帶均呈現濃濃的工裝風格，反倒呈現另一種衝突美感。

SS23 Editor’s Pick #6 Fendi O’lock Swing & Fendigraphy nano bags

作為其中一個帶起「小廢包」潮流的品牌，Fendi今季依然在這個概念上借題發揮，將O’lock Swing及Fendigraphy兩款迷你手袋重疊使用，前者符合去而復返的手拿包潮流，後者則出其不意地成為「手袋式手鐲」。一個手袋不能解決的問題，果然能用兩個手袋解決。

SS23 Editor’s Pick #7 Dries Van Noten peak lapel blazer

在現代女性的衣櫥裡，一件稱心如意的西裝外套必不可少，不僅能成為職場上的武裝，同時亦能符合各種社交場合。雖說Dries Van Noten的拿手好戲是印花與刺繡，但今年春夏季他卻透過不同的黑色布料強調結構和輪廓，從這件西裝外套的肩線和腰線可見一斑。

SS23 Editor’s Pick #8 Christian Dior bustier dress

在現今世代，裙撐、胸衣等事物通常會被視為守舊、物化女性的產物，偏偏作為女性主義者的Maria Grazia Chiuri，卻將意大利貴族世家麥地奇（De Medici）的女性服飾復興，並將束縛的意涵扭轉成賦權的象徵。造工精細的意大利喱士用於平口連身傘裙上，歐陸式優雅融合叛逆少女的風情，確實讓人眼前一亮。