剛剛結束的「時裝月」,米蘭成為了當之無愧的焦點。Prada 的時裝展是 2024 春夏季度 VOGUE Runway 平台上瀏覽量最高的一場,而萬眾矚目的 Sabato De Sarno 在 Gucci 的首秀也終於落下帷幕,更有 Peter Hawking 在米蘭上演全新的 Tom Ford 。
這一季,許多設計師選擇了回望過往。Anthony Vaccarello 在 Saint Laurent 重現了 1968 年那套經典的 Saharienne jacket;Donatella Versace 和 Kim Jones 分別以 1995 秋冬和 1999 春夏作為這次品牌時裝展的起點。
隨著這一季閉幕,VOGUE Runway 列出了 10 場點擊量最高的時裝展,讓我們一起來看看這十名中是否有你所愛?
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MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: Models walks the runway at the Versace fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)
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MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: Claudia Schiffer walks the runway at the Versace fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: Models walks the runway at the Versace fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: Claudia Schiffer walks the runway at the Versace fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)
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本季亮點:Versace 本季以復古風潮為主,超模 Claudia Chiffer 的回歸則讓本場秀達到高潮,更有 Kendall Jenner 和 Gigi Hadid 助陣。
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PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 3: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Gigi Hadid walks the runway during the Miu Miu Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on October 3, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 3: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Gigi Hadid walks the runway during the Miu Miu Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on October 3, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
本季亮點:Miu Miu 已經成為近年來的時尚趨勢製造機,不管是 Balletcore 還是「知識分子風」都少不了 Miu Miu 的助推。
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Troye Sivan walks the runway during the Miu Miu Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on October 3, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Troye Sivan walks the runway during the Miu Miu Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Fashion Week on October 3, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
本季 Miu Miu 在造型上延續了過往兩季,而 Troye Sivan 的出現則為時裝展帶來不少歡呼,此外,Miu Miu 和 New Balance 的聯名鞋亦有亮相。
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A model walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on October 03, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
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A model walks the catwalk at the Chanel fashion show during the Spring Summer 2024 Collections in Paris, France on October 3 30 2023
(Photo by Jonas Gustavsson for The Washington Post via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on October 03, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
A model walks the catwalk at the Chanel fashion show during the Spring Summer 2024 Collections in Paris, France on October 3 30 2023
(Photo by Jonas Gustavsson for The Washington Post via Getty Images)
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本季亮點:本季 Chanel 以簡單且純粹的線條為主,標誌性的粗花呢則遍布整季,慵懶的氛圍則讓其法式風格有著獨特的表現。時裝展座上賓則有 Blackpink 的 Jennie、Paris Hilton等。
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A model walks the runway at the Tom Ford fashion show during Milan Fashion Week, September 21 2023.
(Photo by Jonas Gustavsson for The Washington Post via Getty Images)
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A model walks the runway during the Tom Ford Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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A model walks the runway during the Tom Ford Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Tom Ford fashion show during Milan Fashion Week, September 21 2023.
(Photo by Jonas Gustavsson for The Washington Post via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Tom Ford Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Tom Ford Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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本季亮點:本季 Tom Ford 最大亮點莫過於這是由新任創意總監 Peter Hawkings 所執掌的首季,作為 Tom Ford 設計師本人的得力門徒,Hawkings 承襲了 Ford 的 「性感」風格。
第六名:Christian Dior
上次排名:第二名
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A model walks the runway during the Christian Dior Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
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A model walks the runway during the Christian Dior Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Christian Dior Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Christian Dior Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images)
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本季亮點:本季 Dior 探索了女性氣質和女性主義等話題,整體色調以黑色為主,並邀請了藝術家 Elena Bellantoni 創作了一個沈浸式的場景。
秀場座席上亦是星光熠熠,Blackpink 的 Jisoo、《后翼棄兵》演員 Anya Taylor-Joy 均有出席。
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A model walks the runway at the Burberry show during London Fashion Week September 2023 at on September 18, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images)
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A model walks the runway at the Burberry show during London Fashion Week September 2023 at on September 18, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images)
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A model walks the runway at the Burberry show during London Fashion Week September 2023 at on September 18, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Burberry show during London Fashion Week September 2023 at on September 18, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Burberry show during London Fashion Week September 2023 at on September 18, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the Burberry show during London Fashion Week September 2023 at on September 18, 2023 in London, England. (Photo by Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images)
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本季亮點:和 Daniel Lee 在今年年中的 Burberry 首秀相比,他的第二個系列在熱度上有所下滑。本季,Daniel Lee 繼續回歸品牌的英倫歷史根源,從品牌 archive 中尋求靈感。
秀上嘉賓則有泰國當紅男星 Bright、韓國女神全智賢、超模 Naomi Campbell 等人。
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A model walks the runway during the Fendi Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 20, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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Julia Nobis walks the runway during the Fendi Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 20, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Fendi Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 20, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Julia Nobis walks the runway during the Fendi Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 20, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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本季亮點:本季的 Fendi 對設計師 Kim Jones 來說更為私人化,他不僅邀請了眾多好友到場,就連家人也出席了活動。而 Kim Jones 出色的成衣設計功力,也讓 Fendi 的故事不再只是關於「Baguette」手袋。
第三名:Saint Laurent
上次排名:第六名
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Models walk the runway during the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)
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A model walks the runway during the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)
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PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial A model walks the runway during the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)
Models walk the runway during the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)
A model walks the runway during the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE - SEPTEMBER 26: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial A model walks the runway during the Saint Laurent Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)
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本季亮點:時髦、優雅且性感,這是關於 Anthony Vaccarello 的 Saint Laurent,本季靈感則來自女飛行員們,女性氣質和男性氣質相互碰撞。
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A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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本季亮點:等待了長達半年多的時間,由 Sabato De Sarno 掌舵的新 Gucci 終於亮相,光是這一點,便讓這一季的 Gucci 賺足了關注度。Sabato De Sarno 創意方向和 Alessandra Michele 不同,他讓 Gucci 回到了 Tom Ford 時代的性感和優雅。而 Kendall Jenner 和 Bad Bunny 這對愛人則成了新 Gucci 的前排嘉賓。
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Bad Bunny and Kendall Jenner are seen at Gucci Ancora during Milan Fashion Week on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Gucci)
Bad Bunny and Kendall Jenner are seen at Gucci Ancora during Milan Fashion Week on September 22, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo M. Raule/Getty Images for Gucci)
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A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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本季亮點:本季是 Prada 設計總監 Fabio Zambernardi 的告別騷,時裝展結束時,Miuccia Prada 和 Raf Simons 攜手 Fabio Zambernardi 一同出場,為其謝幕。這一季 Prada 充滿了輕盈的流蘇和飄逸的絲紗,夢幻而又充滿活力。
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Fashion designers Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons and Fabio Zambernardi walk the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Fashion designers Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons and Fabio Zambernardi walk the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on September 21, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)