Bottega Veneta 2024秋冬系列日前在米蘭發佈時裝展,創意總監Matthieu Blazy以燃燒後的木頭地板為場景,橙色的燈光照射著仙人掌裝置,宛若置身於沙漠。而仙人掌正是在沙漠中特殊的存在,它能在最乾旱的地方為自己建立起一片綠洲。

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Bottega Veneta Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 24: A model walks the runway during the Bottega Veneta Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 24: Fashion designer Matthieu Blazy walks the runway during the Bottega Veneta Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 24: Fashion designer Matthieu Blazy walks the runway during the Bottega Veneta Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

告別上季紛繁的「環球旅行」,創意總監Matthieu Blazy本季回歸日常,靈感來源於前Intrecciato時代的Bottega Veneta,延續「動態的工藝」這一理念,對工藝進行實驗性探索,透過廓形、面料和材質等意味著時裝的返璞歸真。Matthieu Blazy表示將「日常穿著」昇華:「在我們生活的這個世界上,我們能做些甚麼?最初的想法是將系列縮小到幾乎是衣服的功能,但不是縮小到最小,而是縮小到最大。我想從日常中創造出一座紀念碑。」

 

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Matthieu Blazy在細節中大放異彩,其魔力在於精良的製衣工藝:開場第一套黑色繭形大衣,圓潤的輪廓是兩側和袖子折疊起來的結果,袖子用扣子將其固定,呈現充滿雕塑感的廓形。不對稱剪裁的連身裙是優雅與工藝的體現,色塊拼接處用大顆的寶石鈕扣放置在領口和胯部一側,不僅起到固定作用,還能營造不對稱的垂墜感。厚實的針織衫其實亦是用皮革製成,Matthieu Blazy與團隊仿照針織衫呈現的肌理和色彩變幻,再次拓寬我們對皮革的想像。

象徵著自由與奔放的流蘇也是Matthieu Blazy的拿手好戲,看似柔軟的材質實際上也是用皮革製成。他撕掉一切標籤,回歸到穿著本身的意趣。流動、輕盈、無拘無束的流蘇,隨模特兒的行走而散發著躍動的生命力,一如沙漠中頑強生存的花朵,身處荒漠卻孕育著盎然生機。

Matthieu Blazy表示:「我希望這種技術能體現在面料本身。」系列中有三條用護照和郵票印章為主元素的連身裙,便是他從日常生活中擷取靈感的最佳認證,這些印花從活頁紙和圖形紙上提取,搭載於層層疊疊的面料之上,多層次設計蕩漾著靈動的設計魅力。