Daniel Lee 情迷「被遺棄的城市」底特律，Bottega Veneta 以美國美學向城市致敬｜Spring/ Summer 2022

Daniel Lee 用運動實用性、創新材料、高光澤度和彎曲線條勾勒出一種強大的美國魅力，向底特律城市的工業和音樂歷史致敬。

by Katherine Ho

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為甚麼是底特律？

英國設計師 Daniel Lee 前往牙買加的途中，一次偶然在這個汽車之城底特律停留一日，卻在短暫的時間內對這裏產生愛慕之情。六年後的今天，這位Bottega Veneta的創意總監Daniel Lee 選擇在底特律舉行他的第三次沙龍系列時裝展，也是首次在美國舉行。

對於汽車、音樂還有建築愛好者的 Daniel Lee 被這個看似冰冷的美國工業中心地帶感受到家的溫暖，甚至看了Jim Jarmusch 2013年《Only Lovers Left Alive》電影便對底特律著迷。

因此找上了歷史悠久的 Michigan Building Theatre，曾是大型樂隊、搖滾樂的傳奇音樂場所，卻因為缺乏停車場使用而在1976年關閉劇院，改造為一棟辦公樓和停車場，雖然如此，荒廢的戲院至今仍然保留著過去劇院時代的華麗石膏拱門和陽台。

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Jackson Myles attends the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Craig Barritt/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Indira Scott arrives at the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Jared Siskin/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: (L-R) 070 Shake and Kehlani attend the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Craig Barritt/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: 070 Shake attends the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Craig Barritt/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Alton Mason and Mary J. Blige attend the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Craig Barritt/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Burna Boy attends the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Craig Barritt/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Evelina Maria Corcos and Debi Mazar arrive at the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Jared Siskin/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: (L-R) Jerami Grant, Frank Jackson, Isaiah Stewart and Cade Cunningham attend the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Craig Barritt/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Kehlani attends the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Craig Barritt/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Lil' Kim attends the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Jared Siskin/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Sasha Lane arrives at the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Jared Siskin/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Rhonda Walker and Burna Boy attend the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Craig Barritt/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Mary J. Blige arrives at the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Jared Siskin/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Slick Woods arrives at the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Jared Siskin/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Slowthai attends the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Jared Siskin/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

DETROIT, MICHIGAN - OCTOBER 21: Selah Marley arrives at the Bottega Veneta Salon 03 Presentation at Michigan Theater on October 21, 2021 in Detroit, Michigan. (Photo by Jared Siskin/Getty Images for Bottega Veneta)

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在這個充滿華麗情調的地方，200多名神秘客人聚集包括 Mary J. Blige、Lil Kim、Burna Boy、Debi Mazar 和 Jeff Koons，還有當地名人Awenate Cobbina、Shinola母公司Bedrock Group的總裁；圖書館街集體畫廊主JJ和Anthony Curis、時裝設計師 Tracy Reese，以及燈光設計和音響的先鋒技術DJ Moodymann和Carl Craig，共同觀賞全新 Salon 03 系列。

Daniel Lee 用運動實用性、創新材料、高光澤度和彎曲線條勾勒出一種強大的美國魅力，向底特律城市的工業和音樂歷史致敬。

超大的牛仔褲和牛仔 jacket 沿用了金屬線設計的，隨性地做到壓扁和塑形的立體效果；同時技術性的尼龍物料也被描繪出米其林肌肉般的手袖線條、大量運動服、拉鍊外套和喇叭褲都充分都展示出一種革新的、海綿狀的工業外觀設計，讓人想起安全帶，光滑的針織背心裙。

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為了彰顯這個城市的摩城魅力歷史，更推出了夢幻般的圖騰色水晶針織和裙子套裝，稱身的喇叭皮邊裙子，黑色懸垂液體設計的針織連衣裙，以及白色剪羊毛大衣。 Daniel Lee 更把 Tyrone Lebon 為2020廣告拍攝 Mica Arganaraz 的高踭鞋照片，化為包裹在 Park Soo Joo 身上的毛巾印花，搭配綠色手袋和運動元素的高踭鞋亮相。

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所以這個系列都不乏看見 Daniel Lee 嘗試以美國美學注入 Bottega Veneta 的基因，工作服、牛仔服、運動服都是以工程化的方式打造出簡單又創新技術的風格，就連模特兒也找來Lourdes Leon，其母親麥當娜同樣來自底特律，可見 Daniel Lee 對底特律元素徹底地融合整個系列。

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