「我的時尚在於在平凡之中捕捉不平凡。」創意總監Sabato De SarnoGucci打造2024秋冬女裝系列,開啟一段細緻入微的旅程,匯聚起這些顛覆性的小舉動,描繪關於Gucci衣櫥的新靈感,展開時尚與現實的對話。

Gucci 2024秋冬系列在稜角分明的長形天橋上進行,模特兒身穿以黑色為主調的服裝登場,芥末黃、酒紅色、淺藍色等鮮明色調為系列增添多元風采。正如Sabato De Sarno表示:「我的夢想和我的時裝總是與現實展開對話,因為我並非想換個世界去生活,而是希望開拓在這個世界生活的各種方式。」

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Gucci Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

 

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大衣是本季重中之重的款式,縫製大衣是體現工藝的動作,象徵一種講求技術造詣的文化。由構造開始,進而整理內攏和襯裡;從布料的垂墜效果、大衣穿在身上時如何隨身體移動,以至羊毛與其他技術含量較高的材質混合後,對色彩造成的變化······每一道工序代表一次精心籌劃的旅程,當中每個步驟均可改變最終結果。而本季將這旅程不斷重複,彰顯每一個顛覆時裝法則的細微動作。

細節方面,哩士經解構重組,再綴以刺繡、絲絨、薄紗等材質,打造出極具層次感的吊帶裙。提花織物上的印花,以幾何線條勾勒鷺鳥圖案,其造型只有近距離才可以看清楚,彰顯品牌雋永的精湛工藝。吊帶裙飾有透明或香檳色的閃片,部分款式則利用水晶流蘇打造行走的流動感。

兩件套套裝以同色系、同材質的形式出現,完美的廓形與線條相得益彰,外層搭載針織衫,給人以兩件獨立單品的錯覺,也增添了層次感。一如創意總監Sabato De Sarno所說的:「在細微處顛覆現狀。從另類角度審視事物,不依常規,不循法則。」

本季Gucci在鞋履的表現中也尤為搶眼。馬靴是連繫Gucci與馬術世界的圖騰,經典的造型結合Horsebit馬銜形金屬飾件,令腿部線條更修長。而Horsebit Loafer鞋款也變成了厚底半拖鞋,以顛覆之姿表露著裝個性。