設計師Jean Paul Gaultier在觀眾席上笑着，偶爾同旁坐細聲攀談，似乎在表示對今次新系列感到滿意。時裝展結束後，Gaultier的確表達了滿腔的讚美。
這是他的同名品牌自2020年以來，邀約的第六位客座設計師，這位設計師是來自愛爾蘭的Simone Rocha，她以浪漫唯美的表現方式，從Jean Paul Gaultier過往的品牌檔案中取材，完美融合着自己的設計美學，猶如舉行了一次跨越維多利亞時期的世紀婚禮。
Model on the runway at Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2024 as part of Paris Couture Fashion Week held on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
作為 coquette 美學流行的「始作俑者」之一，Simone Rocha一直以唯美浪漫、英式復古和少女情懷而著名，Jean Paul Gaultier by Simone Rocha也不例外。在時裝展上，我們看到了大量花卉的細節被裝飾在復古的裙裝上，更別提粉色這一標誌性的顏色，和許多編織、蝴蝶結等細節。
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
Model on the runway at Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2024 as part of Paris Couture Fashion Week held on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD via Getty Images)
在時裝展開始前，Simone Rocha接受《VOGUE》英國版專訪時表示，這個系列更多是她想要表達的「意圖」（intentions）而非靈感（inspirations）。為了表現這種連續性，她將 Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Simone Rocha 視為三聯畫的中間畫，她打趣地將其取了「婚禮」（the Wedding）的暱稱。如果說，今次為Jean Paul Gaultier所做的新系列是三聯畫的主角，那兩邊則是Simone同名品牌2024春夏和2024秋冬兩個系列為輔。
Model on the runway at Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2024 as part of Paris Couture Fashion Week held on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD via Getty Images)
Model on the runway at Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2024 as part of Paris Couture Fashion Week held on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD via Getty Images)
Model on the runway at Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2024 as part of Paris Couture Fashion Week held on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD via Getty Images)
在今次系列中，我們於是能夠看到 Jean Paul Gaultier 經典的紋身印花、緊身胸衣、水手服元素。同時又有Simone Rocha標誌性的女性氣質風格，充滿了花朵、珍珠和水晶的手工藝細節，還有維多利亞時期的復古懷舊和婚紗一般的浪漫下擺，一切都發生在Jean Paul Gaultier總部大樓當中。
Model on the runway at Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2024 as part of Paris Couture Fashion Week held on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
對Simone來說，這是一次致敬，也是一次自由的自我探索。她往回挖掘了許多來自Jean Paul Gaultier早期的設計細節，比如開場look其實事對Jean Paul Gaultier 1994年成衣系列的致敬。白色透明連衣裙和刺繡印花則是對Jean Paul Gaultier 2002春夏高訂系列的重新詮釋。最後的final look則是對Jean Paul Gaultier 1998春夏高訂系列的完美歌頌。
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 1994 ready-to-wear Photo: Condé Nast Archive
Model on the runway at Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2024 as part of Paris Couture Fashion Week held on January 24, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD via Getty Images)
Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 1998 couture Photo: Condé Nast Archive
