1/ 與 Hunter 驚喜聯乘

 

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最新一季時裝展於巴黎普萊耶爾音樂廳(Salle Pleyel) 舉行,女子組合1966 Quartet 四重奏演奏了披頭士樂隊的經典曲目,重現了始於「搖擺的60年代」的跨流派折衷主義; 對出生於1970 年的Nigo 而言,這一時代意義非凡。他大量的復古時裝設計檔案中,都致力於重塑詮釋那個時代的搖滾和摩登派衣櫥。本季與Hunter的聯乘是基於對英式鄉村風格服裝的研究而延展,同時也體現了 Dame Vivienne Westwood 女士的精神理念。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: Fashion designer Tomoaki Nagao aka Nigo walks the runway during the Kenzo Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on January 20, 2023 in Paris France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: Fashion designer Tomoaki Nagao aka Nigo walks the runway during the Kenzo Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on January 20, 2023 in Paris France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

2/ 正裝向多個文化致敬

先說正裝設計,Nigo 以傳統的日式設計展現,汲取了流行於20世紀60年代青年喜愛的西裝廓形,例如無領束腰外套、錐形長褲和迷你裙,既體現了高田賢三先生在80年代設計的寬鬆西裝造型,亦致敬了彼時流行的b-boy文化。Nigo將西方的設計語言與日本傳統武術服裝相融合,在工裝的廓形設計中展現二者的碰撞。劍道是 Nigo 學生時代的必修課,源自日本武士的劍道服啟發了Y形夾剋扣以及日式牛仔褶襉袴裙等設計。這恰好與英國的短裙廓形相似,而傳統英倫風則在本季 Kenzo與Hunter的聯名合作中呈現,並以戶外設計為主,同時致敬美式工裝風。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on January 20, 2023 in Paris France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on January 20, 2023 in Paris France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

3/ 全新Kenzo 玫瑰圖案登場 

融合東西方時尚視角,Nigo將高田賢三先生時裝檔案中大量的經典圖案重塑詮釋。來自1980 年代的不規則條紋(Dazzle Stripes),被加以龐克風格色彩,裝飾於格仔和方格花紋上。此外該系列還有迷你花卉條紋(micro-floral Flower Stripe)和海軍條紋(Baton Stripe)。全新 Kenzo 玫瑰圖案是從時裝檔案中提取的玫瑰圖騰,與花卉拼貼圖案,以及由花瓶、水果和樹葉組成的和服迷彩圖案結合設計而成。Boke海棠花作為 Nigo為時裝屋設計的標誌性圖案, 加以 Kenzo  Target圓形圖案和Flower Target圖案進行重製,用以致敬搖滾樂隊The Who標誌的紅藍白盾牌圖標。以Boke海棠花原型,一個抽象的 Teddy Flower圖案演繹成極具東方特色的伊卡特(Ikat)圖案。

4/  運用日本民間傳統刺繡工藝

刺子繡(Sashiko)是一種日本民間傳統刺繡工藝,也以米粒般大小的針步被人熟知,常用於劍道服,同時也被記錄在 Kenzo 時裝檔案中。 Nigo將這一工藝運用在尼龍、牛仔、羊毛、針 織和運動針織等新式面料上。結合英國、蘇格蘭和意大利羊毛材質,以提花和剪線刺繡(fil coupé)的形式在各種天鵝絨布料上呈現,天鵝絨雕花工藝(Devoré)和傳統燈芯絨流暢精緻又極具創意。時裝檔案中一件1970年皮夾克被重製成為羊毛麂皮單品,靈感源自於美國軍事風格。

 

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5/  全新手袋各具特色

Nigo從20世紀80年代 Kenzo 的設計中受到啟發,將源自蘇格蘭服飾中的Sporran毛皮袋重新詮釋。經過特殊處理的棉麻編織成柔軟的hobo 流浪包和Rue Vivienne皮革劍橋包。雙面兩用的Kinchaku(日本提拉式布袋,名稱取自日本傳 統巾著袋)將傳統和服裝袋以不同的形式展示。 Nigo還將日本劍道的裝備袋和20世紀80年代所流行的運動背包結合設計出一款全新的工具袋。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on January 20, 2023 in Paris France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on January 20, 2023 in Paris France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on January 20, 2023 in Paris France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 20: A model walks the runway during the Kenzo Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Paris Men Fashion Week on January 20, 2023 in Paris France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)