Mugler 2024秋冬系列時裝展在巴黎一所學校的體育館發佈,時裝騷將時尚與表演藝術融為一體,分成三個部分,巨大的紅色幕布和煙霧機的渲染令現場呈現神秘暗黑的氛圍。設計師Casey Cadwallader受到Mugler Archive的啟發,透過戲劇感的演繹方式向Mugler超凡脫俗的品牌形象致敬。

Model on the runway at Mugler RTW Fall 2024 as part of Paris Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at Lycée Carnot on March 3, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Swan Gallet/WWD via Getty Images)

Model on the runway at Mugler RTW Fall 2024 as part of Paris Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at Lycée Carnot on March 3, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Swan Gallet/WWD via Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 03: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)

PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 03: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)

PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 03: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Eva Herzigova walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)

PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 03: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Eva Herzigova walks the runway during the Mugler Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 03, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Marc Piasecki/WireImage)

Casey Cadwallader的第一部分作品借鑒了Mugler 20世紀80年代的設計系列,透視薄紗緊身衣略帶垂墜感地包裹身體,隨著模特兒的行走淋漓盡致展現凌厲線條和精良剪裁。皮革洋裝採用不對稱設計,恰到好處地展露肌膚,配合皮革的褶皺細節展露強大氣場。

第二部分,創意總監Casey Cadwallader以畫家Ambera Wellmann的作品為靈感,其畫作描繪了介於「暴力與遊戲、運動與解體」之間的人體。她的作品在Casey Cadwallader的演繹下,變得立體而靈動,也為整個系列增加了深度和藝術氣息。花卉圖案與黑色基調相得益彰,透過貼身剪裁散發出女性的自信和力量。此外,深V細節和透視面料為造型增添一抹性感凌厲的氣質。

Casey Cadwallader透過建築感廓形為最後一部分的晚裝設計增加了華麗感,墊肩設計與褶皺細節巧妙融合,將曼妙身材勾勒得恰到好處。繭形大衣的肩膀處搭載一片巨大的流蘇,於行走間飛揚,呈現飄逸靈動效果,凸顯著剛勁與柔和線條的對比。

將性感進行到底,Casey Cadwallader對「點、線、面」的的掌握可謂爐火純青,極致線條包裹著上圍,彷彿與開衩半身裙的腰身缺口處進行互補。水洗灰裙裝的臀部採用支撐結構,鋒利線條構成極具建築感的視覺效果,打破對時裝及紡織品廓形的固有定義,彰顯標識性的先鋒衣櫥意識。胸部和手臂處用金色圈包圍,與彈性面料連身裙進行拼接,極具未來科幻風格。

 

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本季系列最引人矚目的關注點之一是Casey Cadwallader選用了不同身材、不同膚色的模特兒上台行騷,展現Mugler對包容性的承諾,強烈表明品牌致力於代表和頌揚各種形式的美麗。Eva Herzigova、Farida Khelfa和Precious Lee等偶像為時裝展增添光彩,凸顯了Mugler透過時尚賦予個人權力的願景。