在今季倫敦時裝周總是不離”Brexit”一詞,儼然政治和時裝是分不開聯繫。在這個充滿挑戰的時刻,Richard Quinn卻只想幫大家全心投入做一場夢。他要做一場真正的表演並鼓勵每個人同他一起做夢。沒有特定的繆斯或哲學思考過程,只是時裝,且最純粹,最藝術的形式。
傍晚七時半座上客們還堵在東倫敦的街頭,身穿Richard Quinn 2019秋冬系列而一如花枝招展的Anna Della Russo甚至一度想離開。進入劇院,Philharmonia交響樂團坐在中央而the Bach合唱團則站在露台兩側的包廂,等待許久的賓客並沒有預想到這將是他們會看到的表演。
「一個時尚的聖地, 一個我們都能前來慶祝的地方,」Richard Quinn自己這樣形容到。
如果你還記得Richard Quinn是首個讓英女王伊麗莎白二世屈駕看騷的設計師,年僅29歲的他定還大有作為。回顧上一季,Richard Quinn標誌的印花連手套的連身衣、latex黑色連身衣襯在了燈籠袖的印花迷你裙下;還有幾乎遮蓋臉龐的羽毛帽飾禮服,今季只會再打破你的想像。整個系列以晚禮服為主,他出名的數碼印花、精緻的刺繡在更誇大的剪裁上呈現,除了燈籠袖迷你裙、蝴蝶結蓬蓬裙禮服,今季出現了以旗袍為靈感的輪廓,當然裙擺被修飾結構也被放大,還鑲滿水晶作為裝飾,皆如高級訂製般。
作為極多主義者(Maximalism),在本以誇張的裙裝下,他還再加上印花絲襪、latex連身衣,與女性化的部分起到平衡的作用。而九十年代超模Erin O‘Connor,Jacquetta Wheeler演繹的印花長袍就相比更為簡單、優雅而高貴。
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: Models on the runway at the Richard Quinn show during London Fashion Week September 2019 at York Hall on September 16, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Tabatha Fireman/BFC/Getty Images for BFC)
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: Models on the runway at the Richard Quinn show during London Fashion Week September 2019 at York Hall on September 16, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Tabatha Fireman/BFC/Getty Images for BFC)
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萬萬沒想到在謝幕之時拉開舞台帷幕竟是穿上婚紗系列的模特,配上置景有如準備好被拍賣的油畫。整個時裝展奏響多首名曲,包括著名音樂劇《Cats》的《Memory》,最後以英國國歌《God Save The Queen》結尾,這樣的編排多少帶了點政治含義。不過跌宕起伏的樂章,調動著全場的情緒,每一套走出的禮服都是如此精緻。不被周遭的表演或超模的登場所吸引,而是能靠設計牢牢抓住注意力,突出時裝的精髓,是舊時裝展才有的魔力。
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: Children on the runway at the Richard Quinn show during London Fashion Week September 2019 at York Hall on September 16, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Tabatha Fireman/BFC/Getty Images for BFC)
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: Children on the runway at the Richard Quinn show during London Fashion Week September 2019 at York Hall on September 16, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Tabatha Fireman/BFC/Getty Images for BFC)
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最後,怎知率先走出的是一群如小鳥般的小模特兒們,她們由幼稚園小朋友組成—戴上羽毛帽飾和粉色印花禮服,有如Richard Quinn世界獨有的小花女。加上舞台上的婚紗系列和台下屹立著的一套套晚禮服,這樣令人欣慰的時裝展出現,是倫敦時裝周需要且值得的句號。秀畢,全場起身鼓掌歡呼聲不斷,頻繁出現在今季騷場的Billy Porter也大喊「這是史詩般的」。
對於平時看完便紛紛離場的座上客,卻久久不肯離去,期望這樣的時裝展可否再encore?
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: Billy Porter and designer Richard Quinn pose for photos backstage after 'Richard Quinn S/S 2020' fashion show during London Fashion Week September 2019 London on September 16, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Santiago Felipe/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: Billy Porter attends 'Richard Quinn S/S 2020' fashion show during London Fashion Week September 2019 London on September 16, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Santiago Felipe/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: Billy Porter and designer Richard Quinn pose for photos backstage after 'Richard Quinn S/S 2020' fashion show during London Fashion Week September 2019 London on September 16, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Santiago Felipe/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - SEPTEMBER 16: Billy Porter attends 'Richard Quinn S/S 2020' fashion show during London Fashion Week September 2019 London on September 16, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Santiago Felipe/Getty Images)
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