這是香港設計師Robert Wun登上巴黎高級訂製週的第二個高訂系列,在時裝展開始前,Robert Wun寄送給嘉賓的邀請函設計了噴射顯示的效果,這種噴射式的設計延續到了時裝的設計上。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model poses backstage prior to the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Kay-Paris Fernandes/Getty Images)
去年的這個時候,Robert Wun首次赴巴黎參與巴黎高級訂製週,成為首位實現這成就的香港設計師。而今年他再次以自己的作品證明了自己。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images)
相比首個高訂系列的以「恐懼」為主題的敘述,他的第二個系列要相對溫柔許多,廓形上更加優雅,但依然延續了許多第一季的精彩設計。比如皮革、燒焦的細節、噴灑設計、珍珠編織、雨滴設計,當然還有最標誌性的百摺元素。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show at Palais de Tokyo as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show at Palais de Tokyo as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images)
像上一季一樣,Robert Wun從恐怖電影中找尋設計靈感,這一季更像是《American Horror Story》和《Beetlejuice》的結合。各種大型帽、假血、噴灑、指甲設計,伴隨著詭異緊張的音樂節奏,時裝展現場佈置成了恐怖電影的片場。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show at Palais de Tokyo as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show at Palais de Tokyo as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show at Palais de Tokyo as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)
他顯然是刻意為之,他希望將那些最糟糕的情況,轉變為自信,擁抱這些恐懼,從而變成最美麗的事物。的確,他做到了。他以時裝作為表達內心的媒介,將自己內心的恐懼用這些誇張的輪廓、褶皺和戲劇性的造型,滿是黑色和如血液一般的紅色點綴整個系列。褶皺時而在裙擺最末端,猶如從地底綻開的花朵,充滿了張力;時而依附在手臂和胸部,猶如束縛你的恐懼,留下令人遐想的空間。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show at Palais de Tokyo as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show at Palais de Tokyo as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show at Palais de Tokyo as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)
這一季,我們看到了Robert Wun在剪裁和縫製技術上的出神入化。珍珠如雨滴一般流過裙裝,一切都是流動的,這種力量感和流暢感在Robert Wun這裡從來不矛盾。就像他此前接受VOGUE Runway採訪時所言,如果時裝只是關於美麗、細膩,那每個人都會做同樣的事情。而他就是要將兩個極端放置在一起,於是我們便看到了如同鮮血染過一般的裙子,但它又如此動人。還有像被火燃燒的裙子,但廓形又如此優雅。看似如荊棘一般的褶皺,卻又讓造型充滿了力量。

PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show at Palais de Tokyo as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2024 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)
Editor
Junjie Wang