到底時裝最吸引人的地方是甚麼？Robert Wun可能會回答，是夢想成真的一刻。2023春夏高訂時裝季度，對Robert Wun來說一定畢生難忘。作為時裝設計師，踏上這個難以企及、至高無上的高訂舞台，不僅是從此開啟了新的夢想旅程，也是對其設計才華與實力認可的重要時刻。這需要非常努力，也需要足夠幸運，在對的時機，獲得一些有力的幫助和支持才得以實現，一點也不容易。
Robert Wun不是第一位亞洲設計師走上這個舞台，在此之前，中國的郭培、韓國的Sohee Park等設計師成功躋身進入這個由巴黎高級時裝及時尚聯合會 Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode（簡稱FHCM）掌權的圈子。FHCM從會員的人數受嚴格的規限，到設計的作品也需遵從高訂標準和工藝，擁有整個行業當中最具影響力、也是最嚴苛的時尚制度，而品牌面對的也是極少數的VIP客戶群。然而在2023春夏高訂季，來自香港及在倫敦創立個人品牌的Robert Wun以亮眼的新人姿態——客席會員身份發表了首個鼓舞人心的高訂時裝系列，成為他設計生涯中一個美妙的轉折點。
論設計，Robert Wun當然不是新人，他自2014年從London College of Fashion畢業後建立自己的成衣品牌已有8年時間。過去他為不少名人設計訂製服裝，包括Cardi B、Céline Dion等，也創作過不少紅地毯造型，但他低調的作風以及小團隊規模一直讓品牌維持著小眾、獨立設計的定位。
直到2021年秋冬系列，他發佈了「Armour」——一個向他去世祖母致敬的系列，為他帶來前所未有的關注度，更因此贏得Andam 2022特別大獎，從香奈兒主席Bruno Pavlovsky手中獲得了一張登上高級訂製舞台的入場券。「感覺就像走了一條捷徑，我會這樣去形容，」他在《金融時報》訪問中這樣說道，「多年來我都是這樣做設計，然後現在突然就夢想成真了。」他表示自己從來沒想過高級訂製——他用「Unreachable」去形容，直到這個系列他對此有了新的看法，「這表示我走在一條對的路上，我其實足夠好。」多了一份自信，也讓Robert Wun對自己一直專注的設計工藝有了更多的理解。雖然過去一段時間曾經歷過迷失，有太多其他聲音告訴他要為市場作出妥協，但他最後還是選擇了堅持自己的設計語言和風格。
從這個系列，還是可以看到不少設計師過去作品的影子，但變得更細膩、有更強的故事性，布料工藝也絕對不容小覷。系列以恐懼、焦慮情感為啟發點，從內心深處最害怕發生的「意外」展開敘述，例如被淺染上紅酒印（血跡？）的禮服、燒毀布料細節的婚紗、沾滿「雨滴」（水晶墜飾）的外衣、斷裂的珍珠項鍊、被煙燒過的羽絨服以及從Stephen King經典恐怖片《It》啟發的黃色雨衣造型等等。「甚麼是高級訂製？」他聯想到工坊內工匠們穿著白色制服小心翼翼避免意外發生，放大和直面擁抱內心的那股恐懼感成為系列刻畫的焦點——「為甚麼不將它變成一種美？」於是系列的概念產生了。當中每一種美都不一樣，這一點也反映在模特兒選角甚至妝容上。皺褶、Ruffle、不對稱的剪裁和層次感設計，這些他標誌性的設計元素和手法都能在這個系列找到，以此回溯自身設計的歷史和紮實的根基，充滿詩意和情感，講述屬於Robert Wun獨特的故事。
時裝騷的最後，掌聲響起，站在後台的Robert Wun悄悄落淚，是感動也是喜悅，他的父母則在一旁輕拍他的肩膀給予支持。這一刻，夢想成真了，是無比動人。而他的高訂歷程還在繼續，今年七月他將再次登上這個夢想舞台，展開新的時尚旅程。
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : Fashion designer Robert Wun walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Robert Wun SS23高訂系列更多設計細節：
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 26 : A model walks the runway during the Robert Wun Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 26, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Editor
Hiu Kwan FungCredit
photo courtesy of Getty Images, Robert Wun
