Thom Browne重新回到了紐約,且毫無疑問地擔任閉幕展示。在時裝騷舞台中央,一個巨大的「雕塑」立在那裡,這個「雕塑」實際上是人為扮演的,模特兒頭頂一棵植物一般的裝置,巨大的羽絨外套包裹著他垂落至地面,猶如童話故事中的場景。

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 14: A model walks the runway at the Thom Browne Fall 2024 fashion show at The Shed during New York Fashion Week on February 14, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by JP Yim/Getty Images)

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 14: A model walks the runway at the Thom Browne Fall 2024 fashion show at The Shed during New York Fashion Week on February 14, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by JP Yim/Getty Images)

正如整場時裝周所展現的戲劇性和詩意場景,Thom Browne2024秋冬系列實則以美國詩人Edgar Allen Poe的《The Raven》為靈感。在這首詩歌當中,失去了摯愛的學生被一隻烏鴉造訪,但這隻烏鴉永遠只回答一句話,那就是「不再(nevermore)」。

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 14: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Fall 2024 fashion show to close New York Fashion Week at The Shed on February 14, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Taylor Hill/WireImage)

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 14: A model walks the runway during the Thom Browne Fall 2024 fashion show to close New York Fashion Week at The Shed on February 14, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Taylor Hill/WireImage)

設計師更是邀請了美國演員Carrie Coon朗誦這首詩作為展示的背景音,讓一切更添詩意的浪漫,而精心設計的佈景則讓氛圍更為奇幻。模特兒們的造型也圍繞著烏鴉的形狀展開,白色的大衣同黑色烏鴉點綴在一起,方正的外套在背面塗上了和烏鴉說的「Nevermore」,還有頭上戴著的頭飾和烏鴉的輪廓相似,指甲更是被塗成黑色。

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 14: A model walks the runway at the Thom Browne Fall 2024 fashion show at The Shed during New York Fashion Week on February 14, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by JP Yim/Getty Images)

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 14: A model walks the runway at the Thom Browne Fall 2024 fashion show at The Shed during New York Fashion Week on February 14, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by JP Yim/Getty Images)

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 14: A model walks the runway at the Thom Browne Fall 2024 fashion show at The Shed during New York Fashion Week on February 14, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by JP Yim/Getty Images)

NEW YORK, NEW YORK - FEBRUARY 14: A model walks the runway at the Thom Browne Fall 2024 fashion show at The Shed during New York Fashion Week on February 14, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by JP Yim/Getty Images)

Backstage at Thom Browne RTW Fall 2024 as part of New York Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Shed on February 14, 2024 in New York, New York. (Photo by Nina Westervelt/WWD via Getty Images)

Backstage at Thom Browne RTW Fall 2024 as part of New York Ready to Wear Fashion Week held at The Shed on February 14, 2024 in New York, New York. (Photo by Nina Westervelt/WWD via Getty Images)

在今季,我們依然能夠看到Thom Brwone標誌性的設計和元素,比如格紋、美式學院風格、西裝元素,但他的創意又屢屢帶來新的驚喜。我們也看到更多鋒利碩大的廓形,為穿著者帶來不可比擬的力量感。

此外,我們也看到了許多19世紀的服裝元素,方形領口、收緊腰部,還有超大尺寸的西裝外套、半透明的手袋和黑白粗花呢佔據時裝展中心位置。整場時裝騷不單單只是一場時裝的展示,更是關乎藝術和詩歌的呈現。而這種創造力,讓我們找到了更多的樂趣。